Bologna is often heralded as Italy’s BEST food town. I think it’s great, but I love Modena even more. You can find my full guide to the town here. Spend at least a couple of nights. Actually, I think you should stay longer and use Modena as a base for exploring the region.

But when you do go to Bologna, whether you’re sleeping there or just spending the day, eating well is an assumption but still must be carefully considered. Sadly I have experienced more than my share of awful meals recently–I was served a tagliatelle con ragù bolognese that featured what I believe was Fancy Feast where the meat sauce should have been. I think the famous food cities can rest on laurels or become victims of their own success, so I put together this handy guide so you can do it up in Bologna without wasting a single bite.

My guide to Bologna was published in Australian Gourmet Traveller. Read the guide here.

Trattorias and Osterias

• Check out Osteria Bottega and Trattoria di Via Serra for bolognese classics. Literally everything is good, although  the wine list at Osteria Bottega could be better to match the food on the table. But the lasagna, tortellini in brodo, tagliatelle al ragù, and salumi more than make up for it. For comfort food like passatelli in brodo, tagliatelle ripassate in padella, and lasagna, visit Le Golosità di Nonna Aurora. Vâgh iñ Uffézí is awesome for filled pastas like balanzoni (spinach tortelloni filled with ground pork and ricotta).

Gelato, Coffee, and Drinking

• Cremeria Santo Stefano is a classic for gelato, while I visit Caffè Terzi and Aroma serve a mean espresso. Allegra is ace for sweet and savory pastry, coffee, and natural wines. Old school Gamberini is cute for aperitivo for bolognesi of a certain age and be sure to pop into Mercato delle Erbe across the street. For an even better market experience, head north of the Stazione Centrale to Mercato Albani. I love drinking natural wines at Il Pollaio (a poultry-shop-turned-wine-bar inside the Mercato), as well as at Enoteca Faccioli and Vineria Favalli.

Pasta Tools and Fresh Pasta

• You’re not going to want to miss Antica Aguzzeria del Cavallo, a shop selling amazing brass pasta tools and other kitchen implements since 1783. While you’re in the neighborhood, pop into Paolo Atti & Figli for a look at the homemade pasta. For more kitchen tools, visit A. Pezzoli in Via Santo Stefano.

Pasta Making Workshops/Classes

• Visit Rina Poletti, founder of L’Accademia della Sfoglia, near Bologna. She often takes her classes on the road!

How to Visit Emilia-Romagna

• Near the town of Reggio-Emilia, don’t miss the incredible Parmigiano-Reggiano of I Sapori Delle Vacche Rosse (to be precise, the farm has exited the official DOP of Parmigiano-Reggiano and is not labeled as such. Regardless, it is part of this historic cheese production, albeit executed in an artisanal way, not a given in the DOP). 
• Between Modena and Bologna, my friend Mariangela has a wonderful acetaia called La Cà del Non where she and her family make Traditional Balsamic Vinegar of Modena DOP. My friend Andrea also makes traditional balsamic just north of  Reggio-Emilia at Acetaia San Giacomo. SO GOOD.
• If you plan to go to Parma, check out Ai Due Platani and Cocchi for traditional dishes.
• Rent a car and drive it around to awesome working farms/trattorie like La Lanterna di Diogene and institutions like Osteria al Mirasole. It also gives you the opportunity to visit traditional Lambrusco producers. You can read all about Lambrusco in a piece I penned for Imbibe Magazine.
• For food tours, check out Taste Bologna! Beyond Bologna, they also offer tours in Parma, Modena, and Ravenna.