Athens and Beyond
Italy and Greece are practically neighbors but for some inexplicable reason, I only started really exploring the vast and varied Greek islands and mainland a few years ago. I always start my trips to Greece with a night or two in Athens. I am obsessed with the city’s energy and the sun-bleached hills around the Acropolis are some of my favorite places to run (9/10 doctors recommend little physical fitness before hitting the taverna). In Athens, I love seafood at Kollias, Cretan cuisine at Kriti off Kanigos Square and Katsourbos aka Katsoúrmpos, and yogurt and other dairy classics at Stani.
In spite of its hectic atmosphere and toxic air quality, the port of Piraeus (a 20-minute drive from central Athens) is one of my favorite places on earth because its many ferries whisk passengers away to a zillions kinds of paradise. Lately, my voyages have been to the Cycladic Islands. I steer clear of tourist havens and head to remote places like Iraklia (Population: 141) where the scarce accommodations keep the crowds way down in the summer. The simple accommodations at Villa Zografos offer great views and it’s a short if steep walk down to the beach. For around €80 a day, the proprietor can set you up with a private boat for exploring the island. There are a few tavernas in the main town serving salads, grilled and fried fish, and braised vegetables. Smyrna in the port is my fave.
Where to Swim in Sifnos
Vroulidia beach was my fave and there are 2 restaurants there. There's a really steep incline and our busted ass car would never make it so park at the little shepherds shelter before the sunset b&b, then walk down. You can usually catch a ride with people with 4x4 vehicles heading to/from beach. i like Katerina restaurant a lot. the move there is fish and mastello (roasted lamb) and chick peas
Kamares beach ( where the port is,it is clear despite the fact that it is at the port)
7 martyrs - its not a beach,its rocks at the castle in Kastro. check out Kavos sunrise cafe for a drink and view
Chrysopigi (naudalis)- not the beach part but the rocks to the righ of the church on the point.
faros beach
Cherronisos Beach at the northern end of the island is overlooked by a couple tavernas. The tiny fishing village was
Vathi Beach sits on a wide and relatively protected bay with several little beach clubs that rent chairs and umbrellas for €7-8 a piece. A new road--the beach was once accessible only from the sea--and The Elies Resort--the only five-star accommodations on the island--has transformed Vathi from an under-the-radar retreat to a destination, so it has lost the undiscovered feel it was known for and it was the most crowded beach we encountered on the island, but it's still a pretty place for a swim and a bite. Tsikali is a solid taverna at the northwestern end of the bay known as much for its land-based dishes like lamb roasted with dill as it is for its seafood.
Where and What to Eat in Sifnos
Venios bakery in Artemonas for spinach pie
Theodorou's Sweet Shop for cookies and marzipan made by 92 year old Karina Theodorou
Loukoumades Aggelon in Apolonia for Greek donuts
Gerontopoulos sweet shop and cafe in Apolonia
Mosaic for Greek/Sifnian cuisine in artemonas
to xryso: awesome grilled lamb spot in Artemonas. excellent salads and croquettes as well.
Chrysopigi Tavern at Chrysopigi beach
Drakaki: traditional greek cuisine in Apolonia
ISALOS beach bar -great restaraunt at the beach or "kamares", near the port
Tsikali in Vathi
Omega 3 for raw fish; booking essential.
Where to Drink
Botzi, Doloma, Cosi, Grado, Gad, all in Apollonia
Must Visit
The castle-to kastro ::great place with a great view-you can combine it after a swim at the "7 martyrs rocks". Have a beer st around 7:30 at the bar of the "cuba guy" (thats how they call them because he has a poster of che guevarA
artemonas:: a beautiful traditional village 15 minute walk from the center of sifnos, "apollonia"
There's a nice hike from Platis Gialos to a beach called Fikiada, it’s about one hour, beautiful view and you can go for a swim.
