I get lots of emails and DMs asking for Lake Como dining tips. I don't go up there much so let's entrust the dining and drinking intel to an expert, my pal Jackie DeGiorgio. She's spent loads of time on and around the lake and has tips that are sure to satisfy. Jackie also does Milan food tours (HIGHLY recommend) and recently wrote the "13 Best things to do in Lake Como" guide for Conde Nast Traveller UK. Hit her up for tours and curated itineraries. Over to Jackie:
"I’ve lived in Milan for over ten years. When I first arrived, my knowledge of Lake Como was pretty much like everyone else’s: superficial–a stomping ground for A-listers and jet setters among exquisite scenery, stately villas, and picturesque towns. George Clooney usually springs to mind first when one thinks of Lake Como, and Bennifer's 2022 honeymoon undoubtedly added to the mystique. If you follow Italian pop culture, you’ll know the Grand Hotel Tremezzo is the (possibly soon-to-be former?) Ferragnez’s weekend getaway of choice.
The more I’ve gotten to know the lake over the years, the very same urge that encouraged me to champion my misunderstood adopted city of Milan started pushing me to spread the good word about the lake. While Lake Como isn’t disfavored like Milan generally is, the glitz and glamour overshadow its soulful, rustic side. And this is especially apparent when it comes to the local cuisine.
Think about it–if someone asked you to name a signature dish from Rome, Bologna, Puglia, Sicily, and Naples, you could, right? Alternatively, suppose I said cacio e pepe, tagliatelle al ragù, cavatelli with sausage and broccoli rabe, pasta alla norma, and Margherita pizza, you’d know where those dishes were from, right?
But if I asked you to name a signature dish of Lake Como, though you could most likely deduce it might involve some kind of lake fish, you probably couldn’t name one, right? Similarly, if I mentioned polenta uncia, missoltini, miascia, and riso e pesce persico, you’d most likely have no idea what I was talking about. This general lack of awareness renders travelers easy targets for tourist traps serving familiar Italian fare–like the aformentined classics. Don’t get me wrong– these dishes can be superb! In fact, some non-tourist traps by the lake do indeed cook up dandy versions of them. It’s just a shame that a true taste of the lake all too often eludes many of its visitors.
So, if you’re visiting Lake Como and seeking good eats, here, in no particular order, are ten restaurants where you’ll find them.
Trattoria del Porto, Careno
There are only two ways to reach this old-school family-run trattoria: by boat or descending a steep rocky staircase. Once you’ve arrived, take a seat on the serene waterfront terrace and feast on lake fish signatures like riso e pesce persico (rice with perch fish) and polenta with missoltini (preserved shad fish). The inviting, your-home-is-my-home hospitality renders the experience even more special.
Crotto Isidoro, Dongo
This covered open-air restaurant occupies a historic aging cave carved into a rocky cliff. The hearty comfort food looks mainly to the hills and occasionally to the mountains–expect local cheese and salami, polenta with different carnivorous accompaniments, and a suburb polenta uncia–their version tops polenta taragna (a mix of buckwheat and corn flours) with semuda cheese and garlic sage butter. Finish with miascia, a fruit and bread cake with raisins.
Rifugio Martina, Lezzeno
Northern Lombardia is nicknamed Polentonia. Though the borders of “Polenta Land” aren’t precisely defined, it’s safe to assume that the domain covers the Larian Triangle, the hunk of land between Como, Lecco, and Bellagio. Perched at an altitude of 1,380 meters, this refuge overlooks the lake and is reachable by car or the Monte San Primo hiking trail. The polenta-only menu comprises at least seven types of the cozy boiled cornmeal dish.
Trattoria San Biagio, Orsenigo
Lombard specialties stand front and center in this veritable labor of love whose owners have forged relationships with small local producers. The food is simple–casalinga-style, but of the ilk you could never recreate as flavorfully at home no matter how hard you tried. The ever-changing menu counts a few mainstays, like the scottatini di cuore (heart skewers with house-made ketchup) and polenta uncia, which arrives at the table bubbling. The wine list highlights small producers.
Crotto del Misto, Lezzeno
Another splendid spot for lake fish with an equally splendid lake view! While the food isn’t overly fussy, the preparations are slightly more refined than typical trattoria fare. Enjoy spaghetti with missoltini, fettuccine with lake fish ragu, and different riffs on lavarello, a white fish from the lake.
Feel, Como
Chef Federico Beretta looks to the local surroundings to prepare elegant, flavorful dishes that embody the lake, woods, and mountains. The menu may include trout with mountain pine honey, polenta canederli in pine cone broth, and rosehip risotto with rabbit and juniper. The restaurant is nestled into the lively Via Armando Diaz in Como’s medieval historic center.
Materia, Cernobbio
Davide Caranchini’s inventive restaurant holds a Michelin star and was named a World’s 50 Best Discovery. He cleverly combines the local cucina lariana with an international flair–don’t miss the linguine with butter, agone garum (agone is the lake fish used to make missoltini), and amchoor or the sea urchin panna cotta with veal brain foam and caper powder.
Radici, Como
Chef Mirko Gatti trained at some of London and Copenhagen’s finest kitchens, and at Radici, he fuses his experience with the surroundings of his native Como. The restaurant holds a green Michelin star and focuses on fermentation, foraging, and sustainability. Thursday nights feature a four-course menu dedicated to open-flame cooking.
Il Portico, Appiano Gentile
Paolo Lopriore is a chef’s chef–a veritable non-conformist beloved and admired by Italy’s food community. His set menus (40 euros for dinner, 20 euros for lunch, and 55 euros for Sunday lunch/brunch) change daily but always comprise share-style dishes that showcase his talent and individuality. Dinner and Sunday lunch are the best times to go, as you’ll get to taste more of his cooking.
Ristorante Mella, Bellagio
Bellagio is arguably the lake’s most touristy town, but it boasts several local heirlooms that run the gamut, like this fisherman-owned mainstay that opened in 1958. The fish-heavy menu includes a tasting option and is rounded out with some meat and vegetable dishes.
If you’re a Michelin pilgrim, the lake’s other starred restaurants are Il Sereno al Lago in Torno, Kitchen in Cernobbio, Trattoria Contemporanea in Lomazzo (south of Como city), and Il Cantuccio in Albavilla (in the Larian Triangle). As you might already know, the Michelin guide can be somewhat political and may dethrone a restaurant (at times, seemingly unnecessarily) for whatever reason it deems necessary. Mistral at the Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni in Bellagio lost its star last year, but don’t let the demotion discourage you if you’re considering it–it’s still great."
Reach out to Jackie at jaclyndegiorgio (at) gmail (dot) com for a tour or curated itinerary.
