I am shamelessly obsessed with Naples and I want to eat and drink everything in the city always, forever. Since moving to Rome in 2003, I have spent a great deal of time exploring nearby Naples, writing guide books, filming several episodes of “Cities of the Underworld,” and generally researching food and drinks. Since I am completely in love with Naples, I am overjoyed that many visitors have begun to give the city its due, building in a day or more en route to the Amalfi Coast (guide here) or to Pompeii. Even more than a few days is barely enough to scratch the surface of Naples; it is one of the most vibrant, sprawling Italian cities and its culinary specialties scratch nearly every imaginable gastronomic itch. Here are some places I love:

• For pizza: Attilio is the best. Don’t believe the Da Michele and Sorbillo hype. The volume they do has led to a major decline in the consistency of their product. Attilio, on the other hand, is perfect. Also check out Ciro Salvo’s 50 Kalò in Mergellina–it’s nice to walk there along the sea from Chiaia. Of course Sorbillo (Via dei Tribunali 32) is super famous but these days it's only really interesting as a study in marketing and brand partnerships. Head to the other spots I mentioned or up to Enzo Coccia's La Notizia instead.
• For pizza fritta: Isabelle De Cham Pizza Fritta, a fried pizza joint in La Sanità, is epic. And I know everyone talks about Concettina ai Tre Santi (pizza is fine, marketing and graphic design both 10/10) but if you go there and skip this pizza fritta spot, you're playing yourself.
• For fritti: Start every pizza meal in Napoli with fried things like frittatine (basically béchamel-bound pasta croquettes) and crocchè di patate. I love these things at Attilio and 50 Kalò (above), and I Decumani (Via dei Tribunali 58-61) does good fritti as well. I Decumani is also open Sundays, so it’s good for a pizza when a lot of spots are closed. Basically every place along Via dei Tribunali does fritti and pizza a portafoglio (folded up to-go pizza) from stalls facing the street. Friggitoria Vomero is worth a hike up to Vomero for a cuoppo (cone of fried snacks). 
• For Champagne: Yeah, you heard me right. Champagne in Napoli. Caseari Cautero (Piazzetta Pontecorvo) stocks 550 labels and pours them alongside excellent cheeses and cured fish and meats mainly from Campania and Spain. Proprietor Salvatore Cautero is a fourth-generation food purveyor–the family was in the baccalà business–and though he has no formal kitchen, he serves a handful of delectable dishes in a small dining room with a large communal table. There are a few outdoor high-tops, as well, overlooking the Neapolitan theatrical performance that is Via Salvator Rosa.
• Just up the hill from Caesar Cautero, Salumeria Malinconico makes excellent sandwiches, as well as eggplant parm and sartù di riso. If you're nice they'll set you up at a table up front near the till to enjoy your snacks.
• For simple Neapolitan fare with a big dose of folklore: Donna Teresa (Via Kerbaker 58), Nennella, and Cibi Cotti (Via Ferdinando Galiani 30/14 – Mercatino Rionale Torretta).
• For equally Neapolitan but slightly more formal dishes and service, check out Mimì alla Ferrovia (as the name implies, near the main train station; not as bomb as it used to be, but it remains an institution), Da Donato (Porto Nolana), and Umberto (Chiaia), and ‘E Curti (east of Naples in Sant’Anastasia).
• For fish: Peschiera Azzurra serves simple raw and marinated catch, as well as delicious fish-based primi and fritture.
• For coffee: Mexico (multiple locations) serves reliable, intense Neapolitan espresso from the Passalacqua company. For more thoughtfully brewed coffee, visit Ventimetriquadri in Vomero. Caffè Gambrinus (Via Chiaia 1) is an institution. 
• For drinks: Puteca wine bar has a great selection of natural vino; for cocktails, check out Scotto Jonno, L'Antiquario, Misture, Quatrum, and Elements if you're fancy.
• If you’re in Naples, especially in the summer, check out Procida (an hour-long hydrofoil from Napoli), my favorite island for a cheeky weekend. You can read up on it here. If you’re planning a stay on the Amalfi Coast, I have a whole entire guide here!

My Parla Tours guide Arianna Pasquini and I lead private day trips to Naples from Rome (inquire here).

Be sure to check out my Naples guide for Australia Gourmet Traveller.